Try using std::call_once

Now that we've got std library support, perhaps we should start using it.
This CL acts as a little canary, and may help fix the linked bug.

I'm not really sure what's going on in the linked bug, but using
std::call_once over homegrown atomics has to be the right answer...

BUG=chromium:418041
GOLD_TRYBOT_URL= https://gold.skia.org/search2?unt=true&query=source_type%3Dgm&master=false&issue=1550893002
CQ_EXTRA_TRYBOTS=client.skia:Test-Ubuntu-GCC-GCE-CPU-AVX2-x86_64-Release-SKNX_NO_SIMD-Trybot

Going to land this ahead of review while the tree is quiet to see how it rolls.
TBR=herb@google.com

Review URL: https://codereview.chromium.org/1550893002
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